Your most likely to have chipping problems in this area, so get it right when you have the largest amount of extra stock to work with. Work out the curve where the steel crosses the end grain first. Get a nice block of walnut that is similar and color and grain to the stock. Eye and hand coordination will need to be spot on! Hopefully I will stop when my hand starts to drift to the budwieser! Now if it was metal I could put it on my milling machine and be done with it. I will have to take slow because I not a carver. Many Thanks for your detailed message! I am now seeking some pictures and measurements of the forarm so that I can carve one for this shot gun. I recommend assembling the receiver outside the wood to get a clear picture of how it all works prior to assembling in the wood when the gun goes back together.
Usually there is a small hole cut into the back of the cut outs for the lock that lets you insert a pin or wire and manipulate the parts into alignment. Its spring loaded by the barrel lock and does not want to line up properly. The hinge pin in the ones I have worked with runs from top to bottom and the lower pivot point is in the lower tang. The only big trick is getting the lever that works the barrel lock back in place. Most of the assembly and disassembly of the LC's I have worked with is rather simple. The reasons behind this have been discussed in other threads on SXS guns recently and I don't think we into it again. The barrels on your gun are a nice pattern welded type (Damascus) so no gunsmith will tell you its safe to shoot it. The fore arm is a classic splinter type fore arm on most LC's, so its easy to carve. The LC's I have worked with are well fitted guns and locked up tight. If it fits properly on the hinge joint, it will be as tight as the other joints in the metal work. The steel piece you have is designed to snap tightly against the bottom of the barrel, and pull away with moderate force applied to the tip of the wooden for arm. It should just snap in place with the snail shell spring resting against the lug on the bottom of the barrel. You should be able to test fit the iron parts and see if it will work.
The part you bought from Numrich looks like what I have seen on other LC Smiths, but I am no LC expert and the only ones I have handled are the newer internal hammer variety.
Feel free to as any questions,and take a look at my other guns listed here for sale.They were one of the better American made shotguns in that era. $60 insured priority mail shipping to lower 48. 3 day non-firing, non-disassembly inspection period runs from time of receipt by your FFL. Hi def photos taken in direct sun light, so forgive the shadows and glare. 14 1/2" LOP over thin vintage style pad, 1 3/4" DAC, amd weighs in at a moderate 6 lbs-12 ozs. Barrel flats marked 2 5/8" chambers which is consistent with current measurements, meaning this gun is suitable for 2 3/4" ammunition, but I prefer 2 1/2" RST shells for all vintage doubles, which can be factory ordered by the case for a reasonable price. Barrels wear an ancient ivory bead and ring true. Invisibly inletted and epoxy bedded behind locks to resist cracking. 28" barrels choked IC/F, superficial pitting in chambers and beautiful shiny bores with no pitting. Restored to almost new condition with hand polished and rust blued barrels, bone charcoal case colors, hot blued furniture, and hand rubbed oil stocks.
For your consideration is this LC Smith Ideal Grade 12 gauge with ejectors.